Non-comedogenic cosmetics: Real facts or one big lie?
In previous posts we talked about the importance of non-comedogenic ingredients in our cosmetics. Who wants clogged pores? We don’t! However, after a couple of smoothies, Shawn and I started discussing this topic very intensely. Do our cosmetics and ingredients really clog our pores? Which tests can we run? Which tests can we trust? We started looking for scientifically proven data and facts on Research Gate, and we were totally shocked! Let’s get real. Have you ever heard about the rabbit ear test as introduced by Kligman in 1968? Yes, guys, non-comedogenic tests are not beyond doubt. Let’s discuss why!
The problem # 1
According to Draelos and DiNardo  “Animal models were originally used to determine the comedogenic potential of raw materials with the assumption that finished formulations containing these ingredients would also be comedogenic.” They came to the conclusion that even the products that contain comedogenic ingredients are not necessarily comedogenic. It means that the formulations of your cosmetic products matter a lot!
The problem # 2
The accuracy of non-comedogenic tests is questionable too. The rabbit ear test was developed on animals (a rabbit’s inner ear) many years ago. Do you really believe that’s a fair equivalent to our skin? The fact is that our skin is different for each individual. Some of us have more sensitive skin, or are more likely to have reactions to certain ingredients.
If you are searching online for non-comedogenic ingredients, you will find many sources and many different lists. The ugly truth about online sources is that they often don’t give you the full information, and you can find many discrepancies between the lists too.
If you ask us, we think that not only formulation matters, but also the source, the purity and the method in which the ingredient is extracted and processed matters too! Look for virgin oils over refined & pure high-quality ingredients! However, these facts you will not see on the ingredient list…
I am true lover of the marula oil, because this oil is a true hero for my skin. It is a very beneficial oil to our skin and very rich in antioxidants. According to many different online sources marula oil is highly comedogenic. Nooooo! My question is then, why I am not getting more pimples? Are they talking about the cold pressed virgin marula oil? huh? Not so sure! How much would I need to use for my pores to get clogged? A few drops or cover my face in a huge amount? Does my entire skin care routine affect it somehow?
The problem # 3
Not only the accuracy of the non-comedogenic tests are in doubt. There is also no institution regulating it. That means nobody can really tell if the claim “non-comedogenic” is correct or not. The ugly truth – nobody can really say if the product is going to clog your pores or not! Test it and watch to see if you notice any reaction.
That’s why we at It’s Me Beauty believe in a short ingredient list for our skin-care products. If your skin is showing signs of any reaction, it’s easier to find out which ingredient irritates your skin if that ingredient list is short.
 Draelos, Z. D., DiNardo, J. “A re-evaluation of the comedogenicity concept”, in: Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 54 (3), p. 507-12, 2006.